Friday, August 22, 2008

Oh the Cheese!!

Katie: WHy do the Indian men stare at the western women like this? It's so disrespectful.

Olly: Because in American movies men get the women easy, in Hindi movies they have to sing and dance.

On that note please watch the cheese that is Bollywood. How Snoop ended up with this crowd I may never know.

Prepare yourself for an intense giggle:

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

The first hair is free

India is not a clean place. Not everywhere is dirty, but then you walk out the door and the illusion is ruined. Today I took my backpack to the luggage room at the train station. I have a full day until my 20 hour ride back to Mumbai and didn't want to lug my now stuffed backpack throughout the crowded streets of Delhi. As I waited in line I looked at the people around me, those who were not blatantly staring at me were either blowing snot rockets, very publicly touching their willies, or holding their undiapered baby at a distance so that it could defecate on the ground. Once in the luggage room I was assured that my backpack wouldn't get lonely in the company of the hundreds of rats moving about on the ground. I'm sure as soon as I left they burst into song ala Cinderella and starting sweeping the place up a bit. I'm sorry I missed it.

This has inspired me (along with the 3 more hours I have to kill) to jot down a few of the more disgusting food tales from my trip. I've had to become rather forgiving, one small bug (with the excwption of a roach) or hair and I'll pick it out. After that I have to say something, which is usually an ordeal. For example, the other day I ordered fruit, muesli, curd at a new restaurant. Upon stirring I noticed a black fleck. I picked out some sort of gnat and started looking more carefully, as I dug deeper I found atleast 5 of the lil' buggers. I called over my waitress, it went like this:

ME- Hey, um, theres like a bunch of bugs in my breakfast.

Waitress: Oh.... No mam

ME- What, No? See theres lots of them, you can even see his lil' legs.

Waitress- Oh no, this is rice bug, very clean, no problem

Me- I think it's a problem, you see, I'm not a big bug fan, in fact I'm a vegetarian

It took several minutes of this to get her to take it back for something else.

One day Olly's luck was particularly bad, he found a mouse poop in his curd at breakfast, which the waiter insisted that it had fallen in after it was served. The very same day he found feathers in his chicken chow mein. The waiter, very simply stated "No sir, these vegetables." To which Olly replied, "Oh is that what you call feathers in this region?"

Another time I had tofu fried rice with loads of coarse little hairs. I was a bit confounded because all of the hair was blonde. I showed my waiter and he disappeared into the kitchen for several minutes. When he returned he looked relieved. "Mam, is only hair from canvas bag, so now you eat." I don't know if canvas is considered a delicacy in some parts, but I had the feeling my stomach wouldn't appreciate it all to much.

Don't even get me started on the coffee. One day I got really excited because a restaraunt had filter coffee on the menu, what they brought out was a similar consistency to wet soil. They just put powdered coffee through a filter.

A day dream of sorts

I walk into a Starbucks and say "I'll have a tall cup of the house coffee, no room for cream, and where is your bathroom?" At which point I wander into the palacial American bathroom, with no need to bring my own toiletpaper.

Isn't that beautiful?

Signing off

I'm Katie Leaper

Not so baby steps

I woke up and wanted to eat before I took on the marathon. Unfortunately I didn't want the biscuits in my room. I got ready fast and began the climb. 248 stairs, 248 very steep stairs from my room to the main street. I climbed up, only stopping twice to catch my breath. Then I meandered over to the Peace cafe and crunched on my favorite breakfast of Muesli yogurt with banana and Mango. My newly made friend Phillip from Austria was there, we chatted for a good hour or so. Then down, down, down 302 slug covered steps to the Tips Tse Monastery. There I meditated for 1/2 an hour. Then my friend Nyima, a Monk at the monastery, talked to me some more about the sand mandala upstairs. We have been talking about it a lot, because I am trying to acquire the tools they use to make it. Apparently the one I got in Nepal is nothing like the ones they use here. This sand mandala is like nothing I have imagined as they have managed to stack the sand 3 dimensionally. I said goodbye to Nyima and he double checked that I would be at the ceremony where they blow the mandala away. They only make it once a year so it is a special occasion. I told him I wouldn't miss it for the world then began the ridiculous hike back up, up, up the 302 steps.



I grabbed some 10 rupee momos (20cent dumplings) from the street vendor and turned down the begging mother who uses her child to get money. There is a place right up the street that watches children for free so that women can work, so I have minimal sympathy. After my snack I head to The Tibet Post, where I am volunteering. I spend a good 2 hours working on a grant proposal, which is a rather new experience for me. I read some stories about the Olympics in China and find myself wondering why the Olympic committee picked somewhere so corrupt and evil to hold the Olympics.

Next I get dinner at an Indian restaurant, Matter Paneer and Garlic Naan with Hot Ginger water, yum. It's starting to rain, as it often does here, and I realize that I left my big rainbow umbrella at the Tibet Post. I run down the hill as fast as I can to Gu Chu Sum, where I am volunteering in the evenings. Gu Chu Sum is a safe-place and school for Ex-political prisoners of Tibet. Each night I come and practice conversational English with the sweetest group of people you could imagine. Tonight was especially hard as Panden is explaining to me how China was forcing abortions and sterilizations on the Tibetan women in his community. He took a stand and protested the actions, a brave move that landed him in prison for 13 years. He told me about the torture, and how they tied him up from the ceiling by his thumbs and hit him in the stomach with a stick. 13 years later when he escaped to India they tortured his family for 20 days after. I didn't want to cry in front of him, it was a challenge. There are 20 students at GuChuSum, all with similar stories. On my way out one of the students, Choukyi, lent me her umbrella. Tomorrow I am teaching them all a Yoga class.


I am spending one month here, and this is a pretty typical day here. I am really glad to be here during the Olympics, supporting Tibet. I'd like to ask all of you reading to please keep your television tuned away from the Olympics. I don't support a country that denies the most basic human rights.

This place is amazing. Good people, good food, amazing mountains, and lots of chances to volunteer. It's also very humbling. I'm very blessed to know that my family and friends are safe and sound. I hope you all know how much you mean to me.

ALL my love

Have your snake and eat it to!

Other possible titles:

Vanilla Manali

Olly Manali/ Manali Olly

Katie fight off hippies, which turns out to be pretty easy (thanks Jamil)

Manalijauna

Katie Snake-lady

Here I am in Manali, haven to hippies. At every corner you will find something amazing to eat, some sort of amazing shop, snake charmers, and Marijauna plants. The plants are all males so everyone smokes hash, and I mean everyone. The fields of marijauna plants fill the air with their smell, and where there are no plants there are groups of hippies creating the smell on their own. Yesterday I went into a papier mache shop and within 5 minutes I was offered opium, hash, Manali cream, MDMA, and LSD. Wow.

This morning, on my walk down to breakfast, I passed the usual set of snake charmers. I never stop because I know they just want to hit me up for money. Today I decided to stop and ask a question. I was told that the snake charmers remove the venom from the cobras so that they are quite safe. The affect is that the snakes don't live more that 3 weeks after that.



Baba-"No miss, my snakes very old, I have long time. Look you take picture"

Me-"No no no, How much are you going to try and charge me for that?"

Baba-"No miss price is no important, here you give my friend your camera."

Then ala Zoolander his friend started snapping pictures of me in various positions with various snakes. He draped me in a Python then took off his Saddhu hat and beads and put them on me. Next he placed his basket of Cobra on my head. Snap snap snap!

Baba-"Ok Miss, now you give for me 1,000 rupees."

Me-"Dude you must be out of your freaking mind, I'm a backpacker. I'll give 50 or none."

Baba-"Miss my baby cobra very poison, he bite you 20 minutes you dead. 500 rupees madam."



Me-"Bring it on Baba, I can't think of a cooler way to die than to be bitten by a cobra in the Himalayas of India. Are you gonna take the 50 or should I just go?"

Baba-"Very poison, 100 only"

At which point I rolled my eyes and walked away until they chased me down the hill for the 50.

I've been spending my evenings in this nice cool town at the shop of a different Baba named "Om Baba". He lives on a commune with Unichs and other Babas where they hand-make purses. His stall is raised off the ground on the main road, which has been quite good for people watching. The bags that he sells take 1 month each to make and are filled with secret pockets. I met one Israeli fellow who bought one the night before. Om Baba told him that there were 14 pockets in the bag. The Israeli found 11 and spent the subsequent week tring to find the last 3.

Manali is really a great place, it's so nice and cool. There is this really great restaurant called "Dylans, Toasted and Roasted". They have a huge painting of Bob Dylan on the wall. Every 1/2 hour or so the waiter comes out with a tray of hot chocolate chip cookies, which is usually emptied within 45 seconds, SO GOOD

Ms.Rickshaw

All of the Indians knew I was coming. I'm a bit famous here if you didn't know. Everywhere I go my adoring fans call out to me. They've come up with... well, a bit of a nick name for me. I am their beloved Miss Rickshaw. Everyone wants a piece of me:

"Excuse me, Miss Rickshaw! Miss Rickshaw?!"

People crowd around me in droves to get a good stare in at their dear Miss Rickshaw, they even ask me to take pictures with thier kids. Moving on.

Olly and I seem to be psychotic, we are psychotic because we willingly made the decision to take a 26 hour government bus from Pokhara to Haridwar. No AC, and once again no shocks in bus. My tailbone literally hurts. Also joining us on the bus were 2 delightful German brother's named Lars and Nick. I was so exhausted from the trip that once we actually got to Haridwar I slept for a day and a half. I felt like instead of riding the bus I had been hit by one. I finally forced myself awake and Olly and I took a cycle rickshaw to the Ganges.



View more photos The water there was loads cleaner than in Varanasi. I washed my arms and face in the freezing fast flowing water. I would have jumped in for fear of being swept away.

I wanted to be cold, cold and comfortable. We decided to split the cost of a car with the Germans to Manali, high up in the Himalayas. Another 15 hour drive and here I am, deep in the mountains, surrounded by hills and hippies. More stories of that soon.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Leaperosy

For photos related to this visit:
http://realtravel.com/member-m1765740-katie_the_gnomad.html

I heart Nepal.

It's like India but turned down a notch. I have finally arrived in Kathmandu after many days of traveling. Olly and I didn't last long in Varanasi. The heat there was enough to make even him want to high tail it out, and he's Indian. We stayed one night in a hotel overlooking the ghats. All of the other travelers there were trading stories of weird infections they had picked up in the city where cows are 1 to every 4 people. Apparently 1 night was enough for me to pick one up to. I think I need a shirt that says "I went to Varanasi and all I got was this lousy infection." Seriously, it's like the plague manifested on my neck. Seeing the Ganges was surreal, smelling the smoke from the ghats was even more-so. Our hotel had a great roof top terrace that overlooked the Ganges.

Our plan was to head to Darjeeling, but due to political situations tourists were not allowed to enter. So we curbed our plans and headed into Nepal. I am like a kid at Christmas when I get a new stamp in my passport. Upon entering Nepal I got 2 stamps and a new visa. My excitement was quickly killed by the bus ride to Kathmandu. No shocks, no rules, and a sick stomach. Ask me about this when I get back if you want a good story for now it is to close to re-live.

Kathmandu is a lovely city brimming with Tibetans. I have been to some beautiful temples and met some extremely helpful people. Today dearest Olly and I went to the monkey temple. We had to hike up a huge hill full of stairs as monkeys and dogs played together all around us. Tibetan prayer flags were waving in the breeze. The view and energy was incredible. This place is incredible.

As for the Leaperosy on my neck, it seems to be getting better. Check out the pictures, it was pretty nasty. It hurt me to turn my head.

Anyway needing some good fresh music? Check out "Amit Chaudhuri" Sounded pretty rad.

The adventure of Craig

A Couple of years back when I last frequented India my brother Craig asked me to keep an eye out for a tool that the Buddhist monks use to make the sand mandalas, I was unlucky. upon arrival in Kathmandu I began asking every stand if they had seen this instrument, nobody had a clue what I was talking about. Finally I found a little Tibetan shop brimming with turquoise and good energy. I was sitting discussing the politics of china with the owner when I thought to ask him. next thing I know he was waving in a Buddhist monk and explaining the item to him. The monk proceeded to write out detailed instructions and drawing illustrations of the tool.

The owner of the shop offered to take me to a monastery by his house to request the item. We were off!! We zipped through the streets on his motorcycle until we reached the giant Stupa, a dome shaped temple with a cone and eyes on top. Once in the monastery we showed the item to monks who gave us directions to the local smith who could make an exact replica. We walked around the temple spinning the prayer wheels until we reach a small shack filled with Nepali's banging out designs on copper plates. My friend handed the design to the smithy and he agreed to have it done the following morning for 150 NR (about $2.50 if that)

The next morning the shop owner picked it up for me and met me at his store with it. The tool was then passed between monks who were very happy with the precise design. They took turns mocking how to use it. This tool should have some pretty good energy.

Nepal is amazing, I hope to come back here someday and take the 25 day trek to MT.Everest. Wanna come?

Monday, June 23, 2008

AmsterDam!

The past few days haven't made much sense really. What with the ridiculous time changes, massive amounts of walking, and partying it up as only Amsterdam knows how, I'm kind of whooped. You see, in Lancaster, PA it's 10:30 AM, in Amsterdam it's 4:36 pm, and here in sunny India it's 8:06 pm. Quite frankly my body doesn't know what to think. Now for stories of Amsterdam:

ORANGE, Orange, everywhere. Orange hats, banners, shirts, troll dolls, ties, wigs ect... Holland's futbol team is kicking it's way to the finals. There was such a great sense of teams and unity. It got me thinking about how divided the USA is, we don't even have a decent national team. In fact our idea of sports is fighting against ourselves, the rest of the world isn't even invited.


I stayed at my new usual hostel "The Hans Brinker." Their motto is "It can't get any worse, but we'll try". This slogan actually got Nancy into a bit of confusion ala Absolutely Fabulous. One day after frequenting a coffee shop we decided it would be a good idea to draw on the walls with crayons. I kept mine fairly small and simple, Nancy went a lil' ape shit on the walls. All the while Derek sat on his bed looking at us in awe of out idiocy. The next morning the cleaning lady came in and it went a little something like this:

Lady(in dutch): Yadda todadda yadda yadda yadda!! No!

She said this as she pointed towards Nancy's bed. We looked around playing confused, like we didn't know what she was talking about. Then she made a gesture of writing in the air and yelled NO! Nancy apologized profusely while I continued to play the confusion card. Then she started counting us on her fingers,

Lady: 1. 2. 3. Yes? us: Yes mam...3 of us Lady: Oh, so sorry sorry, so sorry. She walked out of the room, and we never heard a word about it again. I'm still none to sure what happened.

My birthday was AMAZING. It started with our new roommates singing to me at 12:01 am "happy Birthday" In Finnish. The next day we were all pretty exhausted so we spent hours in a cute little cafe, called saloon, near the hostel. There we drank numerous coffee delights, and played board games. We also met Mike and Jo (yo) the most beautiful young bartenders you are likely to find. Later that night my old friend Lex took me to see an improv group called "Boom Chicago". It was hilarious!I even got a big birthday shout-out from the cast. We ended the night at our favorite falafel place. Speaking of falafel, it's pretty much the only thing we ate in AMsterdam, mmmm falafel. Afterwards I headed down to the hostel nightclub to meet with Nancy and Derek. At which point we tried to teach the Finlander how to speak some American slang. "I'm hella hungry Yo" He sounded mildly like he had down syndrome.

And now here I am in India, one day earlier than expected. I sometimes struggle with dates and times. My ride here thought that I arrived a day later than I actually did. Last night I got off the plane, took a rickshaw to the general area that I thought their apartment was at, then wandered the shanty towns of Mumbai. I had all of my bags and it was HOT and HUMID. I eventually had to cave and get a $100 hotel room nearby, so much for my budget. I'm not positively sure how long I am staying here. I figure I'll stay til' it's time to go, then I'll leave:)

Miss you all!

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Temporary

My name is Katie Leaper. My middle name is Lynn. I imagine as I get older I will switch it up like this:
Katielynn Leaper
Katelynn
K. Lynn Leaper
K. Leaper
It seems like a good thing to do.
I arrived in Portland one week ago. I will spend two more days here at which point I will fly back to Sun Valley, Idaho where I am a temporary resident, though on second thought I usually am.
My brother and sister live in Portland, OR. That's what brings me here once or twice a year. This is a great city brimming with eccentrics. I suppose that's why I feel so at home here. That is why my travels stop here on September 18th, temporarily anyway.
In one month I am leaving Sun Valley. I have been there for 6 months, 6 snowy snowy months. I work there as a nanny, a career choice that has successfully funded my wanderlust. From Sun Valley I am bound to Lancaster, PA; home to my parents, 2 sisters, and a whole heap of Amish people(respectively). This is another in between place for me. The length of this "in between" will be about two weeks. There will be something somewhat new in this visit. I will be met for a week by 2 friends from an "in between" in Sacramento. After the 3 of us adventure through the east coast we will all hop on planes to Europe.
On the 16th day of June the 3 of us will meet in Amsterdam. This will be my third visit to this soulmate city. As for my California friends, Nancy and Derek, it will be their first. I will have a couple of firsts myself; my first time celebrating a birthday abroad (6/19), and my first time traveling abroad with companionship.
On the 20th of June our paths will break as Nancy and Derek will fly back to the states and I will fly to Mumbai to see some old friends. There I will stay until Sept. 18th at which point I will find myself in the very same place that I am sitting at this very moment. Upon writing it seems silly to end up right where I already am. The great part is that I won't be the same me after an adventure like that. In which case here will not be the same here as it is now. One thing that I've found tricky about traveling, tricky and educational, is that "here" stays the same for everyone who didn't experience the same thing as I did. It gives one a rather "outside looking in" sensation. Everything inside has shifted, but on the outside worlds are plastered as they were.
This should prove interesting as this will be my second trip to India. Since my last visit I have traveled through Thailand and Hong Kong, taken a semester of college in Sacramento, interned on an organic farm in Jackonville, OR, temped at a cheese factory in New Holland, PA, and found myself isolated under 4-6 feet of snow in Hailey, ID. I suppose I will have a clear view of these things from India.